Review of the electronicgeek.ca PRUSA I3 EG-1 3D printer (part 4)
Ok, a bit late writing this part 4. I completed the assembly during the week-end with the help of Justin (my second boy):
With the kit comes a nice cable management plastic wrap. There is more than enough but I went overboard and used some of the same stuff that I already had handy. This cable wrap is pretty inexpensive and easy to install (even for a guy that sucks at cable management like me):
Once all that was done and that I double checked cables (especially power) it was time to power-up the unit and try to move the axis with the RepetierHost software connected from my laptop to the printer using the supplied USB cable.
The next step was the wiring, and man a Prusa design has a lot of wires ! ElectronicGeek, you should really beef-up the documentation regarding how and where to run the cables.
During assembly I had done one mistake in the orientation of the Z motors. The cables have to go out the back:
Now an other piece of advise for the EG folks. I would suggest that you install crimped terminals on the side of the wires that go to the power supply. Makes for a much more solid connection to the screw terminals:
I only had ring type terminal available but what you want is what they call "spad" terminals:
Now regarding the teminals on the power supply, the label showing the terminal position was a bit shifted on mine which made me do a wrong connection at first:
That went without much problem, I was able to move X, Y and Z just fine.
My next test was to check the auto-level sequence. I'm used to this having added a similar induction sensor to my PrintrBot Simple Maker. It's as easy as homing X, Y and Z, and then sending the G29 GCode command.
That is where I hit an issue... After homing X and Y, the head and induction sensor that is supposed to sense the metal of the bed was way out of the bed:
If I tried homing Z at that point it would NEVER sense metal and would crash when hitting the bottom of the Z threaded rods... You don't want that.
After some investigation I found that my Melzi board was running a Repetier firmware which it's not supposed to be as this printer is supposed to come with the open-source Marlin firmware. Not expecting much before Monday I fired an e-mail to ElectronicGeek support and to my surprise Eric responded a few hours after asking for picture of the display.
Following sending Eric the picture of the display et responded that indeed I had a Melzi board with a Repetier firmware and it was not supposed to be, should never have shipped that way. Unfortunately the only way to reprogram the board was using a USBISP adapter which amongst all the Arduino stuff I have I did not have that... Eric suggested that they ship me a replacement board which was fine with me. They shipped it Monday and I got it today Tuesday.
During my lunch break I installed the new board and bingo auto-level probing was working. I proceeded with very basic manual bed level and Z-Offset calibration. I was eager to do a first print !
I was really surprised by my first print result, happily surprised:
This is the 50mm calibration angle found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53668
That is it for now. My next article will be about doing some Repetier configuration and providing some example config.